Описание маршрута и ключевые участки на Казбеке с севера
Казбек (5033 м) считается одним из наиболее доступных пятитысячников Северного Кавказа. Находится он на границе РФ и Грузии, на территории республики Северная Осетия. По чеченской легенде, к горе был прикован Пхармат (Прометей). Согласно легенде, Пхармат был нартом (великаном), похитившим для людей огонь, за что боги покарали его, приковав к горе железными цепями. Но на этом наказания для Пхармата не закончились - каждый вечер прилетает птица Удод и клюёт его сердце.
Для восхождения на Казбек существует два основных альпинистских маршрута с севера через пик ОЖД (2Б Альп.) и с юга, т.е. Грузии (2А альп., через Казбекское плато и далее по северному склону маршрут совпадает). Для начинающих альпинистов прелесть Казбека - это его относительная доступность и высота в пределах 5000 м, что позволяет провести акклиматизацию в более щадящем режиме и даже в более короткие сроки, чем при восхождении на Эльбрус. Если это ваш первый пятитысячник, то лучше начинать с него. Но как и у любой горы, у Казбека есть свой характер. Погода на Казбеке менее стабильна чем на Эльбрусе и часты сильные ветра. Тем не менее гора стоит того, чтобы на нее взойти как с грузинской стороны, так и с севера - из Северной Осетии. Оба варианта уникальны по-своему. Если вам интересна культура, ландшафты, природа горной Грузии, которая находится по другую сторону Главного Кавказского Хребта, то стоит поехать в Грузию. Если вам интересен спорт, настоящее автономное восхождение в альпийском стиле без забросок, мобильной связи и ратраков, то маршрут на Казбек с Севера - именно то, что вам нужно! Кроме того, природа Северной Осетии по-своему уникальна и отличается от природы Ц. Кавкзаза, особенно в районе вулканического массива г. Казбек, выделяющегося с запада и севера остроконечными великанами Майли-хох, Джимарай-хох, Майли-хох, высота которых достигает более 4500 м. А гостеприимству горных осетин нет границ. На территории Северной Осетии очень хорошо представлена древняя аланская и ранне-христианская культура в виде родовых башен, древних селений, склепов, датировка которых начинается V-VI вв н.э.
Кармадон
Маршрут на Казбек с севера начинается в горном селении Кармадон, получившем трагическую известность в результате схода сюда ледника Колка в 2002 году и гибели здесь съёмочной группы Сергея Бодрова и большого числа местных жителей.
Здесь обычно группа по
приезду останавливается на ночевку, а также регистрируется на
погранзаставе, находящейся неподалеку.
Долина р. Геналдон
Дальнейший путь подъема проходит мимо селения Тменикао по живописной долине р. Геналдон, которая образуется от слияния рек Колка и Майли. Летом река темно-бурого цвета из-за насыщения ее твердым материалом: валунами, галькой, глиной и песком. В осенне-зимний период она становится чистой. Температура в ней не превышает даже в летнюю пору +7°.
Термальные источники
Интересная достопримечательность по пути на Казбек это Геналдонские минеральные теплые ванны. Возле них делается ночевка. Ванн здесь несколько, температура воды разная. Максимальная температура источников Верхнего Кармадона достигает 59°.
Минерализация горячих и
очень горячих источников довольно высока-от 6 до 9 граммов на литр
воды. По химическому составу минеральные источники относятся к типу
хлоридных натриевых вод, но с редкостным разнообразием активных
микроэлементов, крайне необходимых для нормальной деятельности
человеческого организма. По количеству этих микроэлементов
минеральные воды превосходят минеральные воды Нижнего Кармадона.
Ценность минеральных вод Верхнего Кармадона определяется также
наличием углекислого газа и некоторого количества
радона.
Подъем на ледник Майли
После термальных ванн следует переход по подвесному мостику через р. Колка и поднимаются по морене к леднику Майли. Здесь необходимо подняться на ледник. Иногда на ледник можно подняться просто пешком, но чаще для безопасного подъема требуется навеска веревочных перил.
Ночевки под контрфорсом пика ОЖД
После перехода ледника Майли ночевка делается обычно у основания контрфорса пика ОЖД, либо, если позволяет время, погода и состояние группы, можно продолжить подъем к ночевкам на 3200 или даже на 3500, к стоянке "у креста".
Маршрут подъема через ледник Майли и
по контрфорсу пика ОЖД
Ночевки 3500, "у креста"
Ночевки на 3500 - самые удобные на контрфорсе ОЖД. Злесь много площадок под палатки, большинство из них огорожены каменными стенками. Лагерь обеспечен водой.
Подъем со стоянки 3500 к штурмовому лагерю на 4200
Вскоре после выхода из лагеря "у креста" на 3500 обычно приходится преодолевать неширокий, но очень длинный снежник, падающий в долину. Здесь не стоит экономить время, пренебрегая безопасностью, т.к это объективно опасно, здесь уже случались аварии. Лучше переходить его в кошках, в связках, либо навешивать перильную веревку в этом месте, по ситуации. Также на этом же снежнике есть и стационарные перила из стального троса, но они находятся не на самой тропе, а выше метров на 100-150, между двух скал по краям того же снежника. Периодически трос находится глубоко под снегом.
После перехода снежника тропа становится круче. Дальше идет подъем к отдельно стоящей скале на высоте 3700 м. К скале примыкает небольшая горизонтальная площадка, здесь обычно делается привал перед следующими крутыми подъемами, а также площадка может использоваться как аварийное место стоянки, она вмещает 2-3 палатки. Но здесь нет воды.
Самым сложным участком при подъеме в лагерь 4200 обычно является следующий, верхний отрезок пути, между скалой-останцом на 3700 и выходом на Казбекское плато. Крутизна тропы увеличивается, осыпной характер затрудняет движение. На высоте около 4000м тропа подходит под пояс скал, которые нужно траверсировать. Траверс происходит по стационарно навешенным металлическим тросам, однако последний отрезок траверса не провешен и здесь приходится довешивать веревоные перила. Окончание траверса приводит на хребет, по которому тропа поднимается на Казбекское плато. Отсюда уходит еще 5-10 минут, чтобы дойти до места, где находятся стоянки штурмового лагеря.
Штурмовой лагерь 4200 на Казбекском плато
Только отсюда Казбек становится, наконец, виден. По пути подъема с севера из долины увидеть его невозможно.
Штурмовой лагерь находится на краю снежного Казбекского плато. Здесь есть десятка полтора разных по качеству мест под палатки на скальном гребне, который выходит на вершину ОЖД (другое название - пик Юрия Полякова, высота 4271 м).
Восхождение на Казбек с севера
Дальнейшее восхождение на Казбек с
севера происходит по Казбекскому снежному плато. Большим зигзагом
по плато выходим к основанию подъёма на Казбек. Здесь сходятся две
тропы, одна ведёт из России, другая - из Грузии. Далее следует
подъем "по спирали" по склону горы к седловине между двумя
вершинами на высоте около 4900 м. Отсюда к вершине тропа ведет к
последней и самой крутой ступени - предвершинному взлёту. Когда
снег достаточно рыхлый, тропа здесь достаточно безопасна. Однако,
часто склон в этом месте покрывается льдом, тогда организация
страховки является обязательной.
Группа клуба путешественников Extreme Time на вершине Казбека
Спуск в Кармадон
Спуск в Геналдонское ущелье происходит по пути подъема.
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RubenDioth
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